| Small-Bathroom Renovation -- Doorknob, Molding, Window Casing |
From "Bathroom Remodeling"
episode DBR-105 |
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In this workshop, first-time homeowner Sarah Smith has taken on the renovation and expansion of a small master-bathroom. With some help from her father, she tackled this ambitious do-it-yourself project. The bathroom has come a long way since the renovation began. In this final phase of the project, Sarah puts some finishing touches on the new bathroom and adds some decorative items. Over the course of this renovation, Sarah has stripped the original bath down to the wall-studs and sub-floor, knocked out a wall and expanded into and adjacent closet, installed a new tile floor, installed water-resistant drywall and added a new toilet and angled shower. She has also re-worked some of the plumbing and wiring, put in a new overhead light, hung wallpaper, painted walls and ceilings, installed a new vanity, added a decorative light fixture and installed towel racks. There aren't many items left for Sarah to finish. The projects in the final phase of the bathroom makeover include: - Installing a doorknob and strike plate
- Cutting and installing the final pieces of crown molding for the ceiling and baseboards
- Installing a new windowsill, casings and blinds.
- Hanging a large decorative mirror
- Hanging some pictures and adding some decorative touches
Doorknob and Strike-Plate Steps: - One advantage of using pre-hung doors is that they are time savers. The holes for the door handle and strike plate are already drilled in perfect position. All the hardware Sarah needs for the installation comes in the doorknob kit. She uses small wood screws to attach the strike plate to the door (figure A).
- This is a locking doorknob (figure B) so the plain handle is installed on the bedroom side.
- The part with the lock faces the bath side. Sarah lines everything up and uses the two long bolts provided in the kit to tighten everything into place (figure C).
Windowsill, Baseboard and Crown Molding The next job is the wooden windowsill. Sarah has already cut and primed this bull-nosed sill molding (figure D) to fit around the window frame. She installs it with a couple of #12 finishing nails and sets them using a hammer and nail-set (figure E). The holes will be spackled later. A compound miter saw -- which makes cutting and fitting moldings much easier than using hand tools -- was used to make the angled cuts necessary for installing the crown and baseboard molding. Safety Alert: Like any power tool, a compound miter saw can be dangerous if used carelessly. Sarah's father gave her a demonstration in how to use the saw safely before she made any cuts. Always wear safety goggles when cutting wood or other materials using a power saw. Steps: - After taking the proper measurements, Sarah cuts the piece of base molding that fits at the end of the bathroom (figure F).
- Once cut, she positions the piece and installs it (figure G).
- The next piece cut is the crown molding for the wall above the window. Measurements are taken to ensure a proper fit (figure H).
- With the proper measurements, Sarah's father helps her set the proper bevel angle on the miter saw. The proper bevel angle was determined by consulting the chart in the owner's manual. It's a function of the molding type and whether it's an inside or outside corner on the right or left. The chart also gives the proper miter angle. With the proper angles determined, Sarah makes the first cut (figure I).
- After the first cut, Sarah carefully measures her distance while her dad sets up the saw to cut the other end.
- After making the second cut, the molding is checked for a proper fit (figure J) and nailed into place.
- To finish the casing around the window, Sarah has already cut and nailed the side-pieces. The top piece has 45 degree miter cuts on each end. She positions it, lining it up precisely (figure K) and nails it in place (figure L).
- After nailing the top piece, she sets the nails using a nail-set.
- After setting the nails, she uses her fingers to fill the holes and gaps with a lightweight spackling compound (figure M). The compound will have to dry for a few hours before it can be sanded and painted.
- The last piece of molding installed is a long piece above the sink (figure N ). The left end is an inside corner, and the right end is an outside corner. It's positioned and checked for proper fit, then nailed in place.
- After all of the molding has been installed, the nail holes are filled with spackling compound.
- After the nail holes are filled and dry, Sarah paints the all of the woodwork with a blue semi-gloss paint (figure O).
In the segment that follows, Sarah installs window blinds, a large mirror and accessories.
RESOURCES :
The Complete Book of Kitchen and Bathroom Renovation
Time Life Books
Website: www.timelife.com
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